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Wool care and the environment.

Wool is an amazing natural fibre.  It is a renewable resource which, in this country, is produced by sheep from grass. These sheep often graze upland areas where the ground would be unsuitable for other crops by reason of topography, soil type or rainfall, thus wool is Britain’s primary indigenous natural fibre. Wool’s natural crimp and elasticity helps it withstand continuous wear whilst still retaining its good looks. When the atmosphere is damp it absorbs moisture, and then releases it when the atmosphere dries.

Caring for your wool

The greatest enemy of wool is a moth. Simple precautions will enable you to keep your woollen goods permanently safe, for example by not leaving drawers and wardrobes open with a light on at night, especially in the summer. Lavender bags or cedar balls are a good deterrent, probably better than the more old-fashioned smell of camphor. You can find moth-proof protective bags for your precious pullovers  on the high street. Exmoor Horn Wool’s woolstore has special shelving made from Cedar of Lebanon, which has moth repellant properties.

The washing of any woollen textile should always be done with a non-bio detergent. Biological detergents eat wool, because that’s what the enzymes in them are supposed to do to natural products, like digesting a stain. Whether you are hand-washing or low-temperature machine-washing, always read the label first. Wool pullovers really do not need to be washed every three or four wearings unless they are very soiled, after all, sheep don’t get progressively dirty, do they? If your jumper needs refreshing, just hang it outside for a couple of hours on a dry day and its life will be prolonged. Dare we suggest that woollen socks can even be worn for two days, since wool has hypoallergenic and antibacterial properties??

And when your woollens have finally died, because wool is made of a keratin, a natural protein similar to hair, it will degrade naturally in landfill (not in 40 years like synthetics) and will break down naturally, releasing its valuable nutrients back into the earth.

Wool versus synthetics – the danger of microfibres

Most new fabrics are made of plastic. Plastics are a by-product of the oil industry, thus using non-renewable resources. These textiles, which can be woven or non-woven (think cleaning cloths as well as apparel) can be made of 100% polyester or polyester and polyamide (nylon), or acrylic. Microfibres are tiny pieces of these plastics, < 5mm in length, and thinner than a human hair. They do not degrade, merely fragment. Every wash of synthetic garments releases millions of microfibres into waste water. Natural fibres such as wool biodegrade harmlessly without becoming environmentally hazardous.

At present, there are no wastewater treatment plants that are capable of capturing these particles, so ultimately they end up in the sea via our rivers. They are found in plankton, which is eaten by fish, and then us. Microfibres have been found in mussels, but also in air, soil, drinking water, beer and table salt, so are we eating our own clothes? Recently, plastic pollution has been found in the gut of every single tiny creature that lives in the Mariana Trench which is the deepest place on earth in the western Pacific Ocean.  Proper wool clothing is a worthwhile, guilt-free investment.

Synthetics present two major areas of concern – wasteful usage and toxicity.

Wasteful usage of synthetics

The World Economic Forum, at which David Attenborough spoke, estimates that

  • every second, a garbage truck full of textiles is burnt or sent to landfill
  • three in five items bought are thrown away.

So in order to reduce the impact of fashion, we should buy fewer clothes, choose natural fibres such as wool, re-use and recycle. Buying higher quality clothes that will last longer is a step towards reducing waste. In the end, quality is cheap.

Whilst we will not be able to turn back the clock and remove synthetic fabrics from our wardrobes because they are so useful, we can mitigate their effects on the environment by following some suggestions from Friends of the Earth such as

  • wash at low temperatures (fewer microfibres will be shed in a less aggressive wash)
  • fill the washing machine (reduces friction)
  • reduce spin speeds
  • whenever possible, air dry rather than tumble dry
  • buy wool!

Plastics Toxicity

The presence of microfibres is not the only problem in our oceans. Plastic waste in the form of broken plastic bottles, netting, microbeads in cosmetics, and general  waste, form a plastic soup which endangers wildlife by entanglement and ingestion. But the chemicals used in the manufacture of this plastic are dissolved and appear in the waters of the most remote areas of earth. For example, the embryo of an Artic Tern’s egg was found to contain phthalates, an industrial chemical used as a PVC plastic softener. This chemical damages liver, kidneys, lungs and reproductive system. It is found in vinyl floorcovering, food packaging and personal care products such as soap and shampoo. We can help mitigate the damaging effects of plastics usage by refusing unnecessary packaging, and insisting that food containers and wrapping are made of compostable cornstarch wherever feasible.

Wool can make a major contribution to de-plasticising our lives

  • wool beds, duvets, pillows and blankets replace hollowfibre and give you a good night’s sleep
  • wool carpets are strong, long-lasting, can take heavy use and reduce noise
  • wool upholstery fabric is naturally fire-retardant
  • wool loft or wall insulation has wonderful thermal properties and is safer to handle than alternatives.